lördag 21 oktober 2017

The Bedbugbear




So, this is the pattern for my design The Bedbugbear. A neat little guru that likes to hang out in beds and collect nightmares. The Bedbugbear stores the dreams in it's night cap, so it really prefers to keep the cap on, no matter what. However, I will warn you right away - I don't have any pattern for the cap since I really just sew it by feeling. I measure the head of the guru and then I just cut out two triangular pieces of cloth, add a rubber band in the lining and just try to make the best of it. Anyhow, back to the bedbug.  I use the yarn Tilda from Svarta Fåret (big surprise) and by doing so, this particular bear will measure about 19 cm while standing up, and 15 cm while sitting down. Hook size: 2,5. Safety eyes size: 10 mm.  

Finally, here's the pattern. And oh - if you by any chance use it and want to share or sell your creation, please make a note about the gurus origin. Now, bedbug away

 Part I: The Head (start with grey)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 st then 2 in the next st (30)
6) 1 sc in the next 4 st then 2 in the next st (36)
7) 1 sc in the next 5 st then 2 in the next st (42)
8) 1 sc in the next 6 st then 2 in the next st (48)
9) 1 sc in the next 7 st then 2 in the next st (54)
10) 1 sc in the next 8 st then 2 in the next st (60)
11) 1 sc in the next 9 st then 2 in the next st (66)
12-19) I sc in each st for 8 rows (66)
20) 1 sc in the next 9 st then 2 tog (60)
21) 1 sc in the next 8 st then 2 tog (54)
22) 1 sc in the next 7 st then 2 tog (48)
23) 1 sc in the next 6 st then 2 tog (42)
24) 1 sc in the next 5 st then 2 tog (36)
25) 1 sc in the next 4 st then 2 tog (30)
26) 1 sc in the next 3 st then 2 tog (24) – change colour on last st (white)
27) 1 sc for one row – place the safety eyes between row 24 and 25, 10 gaps between (before attachment)
28-29) I sc in each for 2 rows  (24) – stuff the head
30) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 tog (18)
31) I sc in each st for 1 row
32) 1 sc in the next st then 2 tog (12)
33) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 tog (9) (Stuff and shape the rest of the muzzle)
34) 1 sc in the next st then 2 in the next (6)
f/o Weave in and out of the remaining stitches and close the gap.

Part II: The Body (grey)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 st then 2 in the next st (30)
6-9) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows
10) 1 sc in the next 4 st then 2 in the next st (36)
11) 1 sc in each st for 1 row
12) 1 sc in the next 5 st then 2 in the next st (42)
13-14) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
15) 1 sc in the next 6 st then 2 in the next st (48)
16-19) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows
20) 1 sc in the next 6 st then 2 tog (42)
21) 1 sc in the next 5 st then 2 tog (36)
22) 1 sc in the next 4 st then 2 tog (30)
23) 1 sc in the next 3 st then 2 tog (24)
24) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 tog (18)
25) 1 sc in the next st then 2 tog (12)
26) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 tog (9)
27) 2 tog then f/o,
weave in and out of the remaining sts and close the gap –leave a really long thread for sewing

Part III. The Feet (start with blue)
1) Magic circle (6) 
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st (30)
6) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next st (36) – change colour on last st (grey)
7) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 in the next st (42)
8-9) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
10) 1 sc in the next 5 sts, then 2 tog (36)
11) 1 sc in the next 4 sts, then 2 tog (30)
12) 2 tog x 6, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (24)
13) 2 tog x 4, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (20)
14) 2 tog x 2, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (18)
15) 1 sc in the next 4 sts, then 2 tog (15)
16-19) 1 sc in each st for 4  rows  – stuff the foot while making the rows
Crochet the sides of the leg together , f/o, and leave a thread for sewing

Part IV: The Arms (grey)
1) Magic circle (6) 
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5-7) 1 sc in each st for 3 rows
8) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 tog (18)
9) 1 sc in each st for 1 row
10) 1 sc in the next 7 sts then 2 tog (16)
11-21) 1 sc in each st for 11 rows   stuff hand, and the arm lightly
f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.

Part V: The Ears (grey)
1) Magic circle (6) 
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5-8) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows
f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.

Part VI: The Tail (grey)
1) Magic circle (6) 
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4-5) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.

Part VII: Assemble the Bedbugbear!
 
Part VIII:  If you prefer, you can add the details (scars) by sewing them on. 

Sleep well!

Some pictures that might or might not be helpful:

Just before bedtime.
From the back, with the cap in the wind.
As you can see, the body is pear shaped.
The head, body and feet attached. Arms on the way.
Rare footage: The Bedbugbear without it's cap.

Bedtime stories.

fredag 5 maj 2017

The Yarn and so forth

The yarn "Tilda" from Svarta Fåret with the hook size 2,5 mm.
As you may know, how your amigurumi turns out is much depended upon the yarn you're using. I always go with the yarn "Tilda", from Svarta Fåret. I can't  see an amigurumi turning out better with any other yarn. The "secret" about this yarn is that it is 50% cotton and 50% acrylic, which makes it the Harry fucking Potter of amigurumi yarns - stretchable but still firm. This is a key stone to amigurumi making. You'll need a yarn that is bendibale, but firm, and a 50/50-yarn will do the trick. All of the amigurumis on this page are made with this yarn (and no, this is not a commercial - I really don't know the yarn-people, I just like the yarn!).

This is an image on how this particular yarn looks like in row 2 of all of my amigurumis (which mirrors row 2, after the magic circle): 2 sc in each st = 12 sts:


Hope this will guide you regarding the size of the yarn you're using. May the force be with you.

fredag 28 april 2017

The Just happy to be here Panda

So. If you made the Raccoon in my previous post, this one won't be so hard. It's kind of like the same, with some minor differences. This is the pattern for my design, the Just happy to be here Panda (it's very humble). If you use a thin yarn and needle size 2.5, the height of the panda will be about 18 cm sitting down, and 24 cm standing up. And yes, the yarn is  "Tilda" from Svarta Fåret again. (Safety eyes size: 12 mm.)





Part I. The Eyes (Black yarn and safety eyes)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 3 sc in each of the next 2 sts then 1 sc in the remaining sts (16)
4) 3 sc in each of the next 3 sts then 1 sc in the remaining sts (22)
5) 3 sc in each of the next 4 sts then 1 sc in the remaining sts (30)
f/o, leave a thread for sewing

attach the safety eyes on the "plates", but do not lock them (lock them once you place them on the head.

Part II. The Head/body (Start with white)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st (30)
6) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next st (36)
7) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 in the next st (42)
8) 1 sc in the next 6 sts then 2 in the next st (48)
9) 1 sc in the next 7 sts then 2 in the next st (54)
10) 1 sc in the next 8 sts then 2 in the next st (60)
11) 1 sc in the next 9 sts then 2 in the next st (66)
12) 1 sc in the next 10 sts then 2 in the next st (72)
13-23) I sc st in each st for 11 rows
24) 1 sc in the next 10 sts then 2 tog (66)
25) 1 sc in the next 9 sts then 2 tog (60)
26) 1 sc in the next 8 sts then 2 tog (54) – attach the back of the eyes (with safety eyes) between rows 17-18. Now – lock them! I place them so it's 4 sts between them.
27) 1 sc in the next 7 sts then 2 tog (48)
28) 1 sc in the next 6 sts then 2 tog (42)
29) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 tog (36)
30) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 tog (30)
31) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 tog (24) – stuff the head
32) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 tog (20)
33) I sc in each st for 1 row – change colour on last st – black
34) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next (24)
35) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next (30)
36) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next (36) 
37) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 in the next (42)
38-40) 1 sc in each st for 3 rows – change colour on last st – white
41- 45) 1 sc in each st for 5 rows (42)
46) I sc in the next 6 sts then 2 in the next st (48)
47-50) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows (48)
51) 1 sc in the next 6 sts then 2 tog (42)
52) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 tog (36)
53) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 tog (30)
54) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 tog (24)
55) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 tog (18) – stuff the body
56) 1 sc in the next st then 2 tog (12)
57) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 tog (9)
58) 2 tog x 3 times then f/o – weave in and out of the remaining stitches and close the gap.

Part III. The Feet (Black)
1) Magic circle (6) 
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st (30)
6) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next st (36)
7) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 in the next st (42)
8) 1 sc in the next 6 sts then 2 in the next st (48)
9-10) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
11) 1 sc in the next 6 sts, then 2 tog (42)
12) 1 sc in the next 5 sts, then 2 tog (36)
13) 2 tog x 6, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (30)
14) 2 tog x 4, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (26)
15) 2 tog x 2, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (24)
16) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 tog (20)
17-22) 1 sc in each st for 6 rows  
Crochet the sides of the leg together , f/o, and leave a thread for sewing

Part IV. The Arms (Black)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st (30)
6-10) 1 sc in each st for 5 rows
11) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next (24)
12-13) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows 
14) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (18)
15-24) 1 sc in each st for 10 rows – stuff the arm lightly
f/o and leave a thread for sewing. 

Part V. The Ears (black)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st (30)  
6-10) I sc in each st for 5 rows 
 f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.

Part VI. The Muzzle (white)
 1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st x 3, then 1 sc in the reamaing sts (21)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st x 3, then 1 sc in the reamaing sts (24)
6) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next st x 3, then 1 sc in the reamaing sts (27)
7) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 in the next st x 3, then 1 sc in the reamaing sts (30)
f/o, leave a thread for sewing
- stuff the muzzle while you sew it on.
Sew 2 wide sts on the muzzle (black).

Part VII. Assemble the Panda!


Attaching the safety eyes.
Attaching the legs.
Attaching the arms.

Attaching the ears.
Attaching the muzzle (stuff it lightly while you sew it on).*
Done!
Profile pic.

*Stuf the muzzle while you sew it on.

With knitted scarf.